In and around Jerusalem

These two popular circular walks in Gush Etzion follow a beautiful forest path with spectacular views, visit 2 or 3 of the Etzion springs, and explore the ruins of Khirbet Jumjum, a fortified Jewish town from the Second Temple and Talmudic periods. 

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BACKGROUND

GUSH ETZION AND THE LONE OAK 

If the centuries-old oak tree outside Alon Shvut could talk - it would have lots of stories to tell!

The area known today as Gush Etzion was inhabited by Jews during the Second Temple period and beyond, but until the last century there had been no Jewish presence there for over 1,500 years. This began to change in the early twentieth century when two separate attempts were made to resettle the area on land purchased from the nearby Arab villages.However, these fledgling communities were abandoned following the Arab riots of 1929 and 1937.   

A third attempt to settle the area was made in 1943 by a group of young pioneers that included a number of Holocaust survivors. The hills were rocky and barren, the water supply was tenuous, the winter weather was bitterly cold and the settlement was quite isolated. Despite these difficulties, the settlers of Kfar Etzion and the 3 other kibbutzim built nearby made steady progress. By 1947, there were about 450 Jews living in Gush Etzion.  

Following the approval of the United Nations Partition Plan on November 29, the settlers of the Etzion Bloc had some critical decisions to make. The U.N. decision was widely celebrated by the Jewish people due to its historic approval of an independent Jewish state in the land of Israel, but according to the provisions of this plan, Gush Etzion was slated to become part of an Arab state. When hostilities broke out a few hours after the vote, Arab militias began to attack Jewish vehicles on the roads, and travel between Gush Etzion and Jerusalem quickly became extremely dangerous, such that supplying the residents and their defenders with provisions and reinforcements was extremely difficult.  

The settlers could have given up and retreated to Jerusalem. However, it was decided to evacuate only the children and mothers, while the others remained to try and withstand a difficult siege. This decision provided crucial protection for the southern Jewish neighborhoods of Jerusalem against Arab forces from the Hebron area.  

Ultimately, after a 2-day battle on the eve of Israel’s declaration of independence, Gush Etzion fell to the Jordanian Legion, aided by British and Arab irregulars. The defenders of Kfar Etzion surrendered their arms, were told to assemble for a photograph and were then shot. The defenders of the other settlements were taken to Jordan as prisoners of war. In total, 151 people died defending Gush Etzion, which then passed to Jordanian control. 

For each of the next nineteen years, the survivors of Gush Etzion would gather together at a site on the mountains outside of Jerusalem from where they could look across the border and just make out the silhouette of the "Lone Oak Tree," a centuries-old oak growing on a hilltop between their abandoned towns. This landmark became a symbol of the hope that one day they would return.

Less than two decades later, after Israel’s surprising victory in the 1967 Six Day War, they did exactly that. The Jordanians had been warned not to initiate hostilities when war broke out between Israel and Egypt. Nevertheless, the Jordanians attacked and opened a second front for Israel. As a result of Jordan's decision, the Israel Defense Forces were able to reunite Jerusalem. 

Israel had no plans to advance to Judea and Samaria, but the Jordanian forces retreated and this allowed the IDF to capture these areas with almost no fighting. Following the capture of these historic and strategic areas, there was considerable ambivalence within the Israeli government and the Israeli nation about what to do with them. With regard to Gush Etzion, however, a consensus quickly emerged that this area would never be relinquished.

With permission of the government, Kibbutz Kfar Etzion was reestablished several months after the Six Day War. Many members of this kibbutz were children of fathers who had been killed in the War of Independence. Shortly after this, a second town was founded adjacent to the Lone Tree and given the symbolic name Alon Shvut, meaning “Tree of Return”. 

Today, Gush Etzion is a flourishing suburban area consisting of 19 small Jewish communities and the large towns of Efrat and Beitar Illit, has a combined population of over 80,000 residents, and a thriving agricultural sector based primarily on fruit trees and vineyards.  

 

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Time: There are two possible hikes. The basic hike is Hike A and this takes about 2½ to 3 hours. It is also possible to extend the basic hike for another hour or so to visit Ein Lavan (Hike B), and then to join up with the route for Hike A at Ein Huvela. This time includes an additional hour or so for enjoying the pools and exploring the ruins of Khirbet Jumjum.

Distances:  Hike A: 5 Km, Hike B 7.5 Km 

Difficulty: There is a fairly steep and slippery section on the first part of this hike which can be bypassed if desired. After that, this is an easy walk along well-trodden dirt footpaths and jeep trails. From Khirbet Jumjum there is an ascent from the valley for both hikes. The incline is gradual one, but due to its length it can be a bit strenuous. The ascent is even longer for Hike B. 

Starting point: Both hikes start at a parking area at the intersection just before the "Gavna" catering facility. There is a signposted map here and a picnic table. 

Directions: Put into Waze: "Gavna, Bat Ayin" (גוונה, בת עין).

From Jerusalem: Travel south on Road 60 to the Gush Etzion Junction. Turn right on road 367 towards Alon Shvut and Kfar Etzion. At the roundabout outside of Kfar Etzion, take the second exit to continue straight ahead towards Bat Ayin (this road is also signposted to “Gush Etzion Springs” and “Regional Cemetery”.) After a few minutes, take the first turn on the right, marked “Gush Etzion Springs”. Continue along this road past the orchard and around a few turns until you come to the intersection just before the Gavna catering facility. 

From Tel Aviv: Take Road 1 to the Shaar HaGai exit, and then travel south on 38. Just before Bet Shemesh, turn right on Road 3855.  Take this road all the way to the end, and then turn right on 475.  At the next intersection (Etziona Junction), turn left at the roundabout onto 367.  Follow this road for 15.5 km until the roundabout outside of Kfar Etzion. Turn right towards Bat Ayin and continue as above. 

Public transport: Put into Moovit "Kfar Etzion". There are regular buses to Kfar Etzion from outside of the Central Bus station in Jerusalem. The journey takes just over an hour. From the entrance of Kfar Etzion, it is about a 15-minute walk to the parking area just before the Gavna catering facility.

Security: This hike is in Area C, as is the rest of Gush Etzion. There have been occasional stabbing attacks at points of interaction between Jews and Arabs. In response to this, there is a significant army presence guarding these points. This hike is in a Jewish enclave and there are no Arab villages in the immediate vicinity. This is a popular hike for individuals and groups and the area is regarded as being safe. 

The Route:

• From the parking area, take the blue-marked jeep trail signposted to חורבת גומג׳ום עין סג׳מה. Soon, on your left, you will see a sign that says “למעין” (to the spring) indicating the path to Ein S’ajma (עין סג׳מה). This footpath is slightly difficult because of its steep incline and slipperiness due to frequent use. Nevertheless, it is not dangerous. (If you wish to bypass this short cut, continue along the jeep trail, turn left at the next intersection, and this will bring you to the same point after about 15 minutes). 

• When the footpath comes to a jeep trail, turn right, and within a few meters, by the end of the railing, there are steps leading down to the spring and the pool. 

The spring is known in Arabic as Ein S'ajma (Arabic for a “deer”,) but is also called “Ein Yitzhak” in memory of Yitzhak Weinstock, a 19-year old from nearby Alon Shvut who was killed by terrorists in 1993 in a roadside attack near Ramallah. The pool is small, and is 1.8 meters deep. There is a single picnic table here. A bit further down the hill is a second pool fed from the same spring, named “Dubak’s Pool” after Yitzhak’s father, who passed away of an illness in 2007 - but this is not part of this hike.

• From the pool, continue straight ahead onto a footpath marked with a red bicycle symbol painted on a rock. This is a very beautiful footpath that passes through a pine forest, overlooks the valley below, and provides provides views of the surrounding hills and valleys, and Beitar Illit in the distance. The bicycle trail runs parallel to a blue-marked jeep trail slightly above it. The trail emerges in front of the ruins of Khirbet Jumjum (חורבת גומג׳ום). To view the ruins, take the path straight ahead up the hill.

This was a fortified Jewish town in the Second Temple period, and it was also inhabited during the Byzantine and Mamluke periods. It is worthwhile going to the top of the hill to view the ruins. Excavations in 2005 and 2008 uncovered ossuaries, burial caves, and winepresses. Look also for the ritual baths (mikva'ot), water cisterns, and the remains of an olive press. The view from the top of the hill is spectacular.    

From Khirbat Jumjum there are two ways to reach Ein Huvela, from where it is a short walk to your car. 

Hike A (shorter): 

• Go through the open area in the fence and turn left onto a path which initially parallels the jeep trail on the other side of the fence. (It is also possible to continue straight ahead on the blue-marked paved road. It goes to the same place but is a bit longer as it goes down into the valley initially). Follow the trail past the outside of the vineyard, until it meets the blue-marked paved road. Turn left up the hill. Towards the top of the hill there is an intersection. Take the right fork onto the blue-marked jeep trail (and not the paved road). This will lead you to Ein Huvela.   

In contrast to the other pools in this area, this pool is enclosed and functions as a mikvah for the residents of Bat Ayin and other nearby areas. (I did meet one person here who comes regularly from Jerusalem for an immersion). The water is cold and provides a wonderful spiritual and physical jolt. One can reach the spring by crawling through the narrow tunnel near the mikvah to a water-filled cavernous cave. Across the road from the mikva is a hummus joint which is open in the afternoon and evening. It does not serve dairy – so forget the latte.

Hike B (longer):  

• By the base of the hill of Khirbet Jumjum is a bicycle trail on the left indicated  by a red bicycle trail sign. What this trail is doing is taking you to the next valley along. Close to the bottom of this valley it joins with a green-marked jeep trail. Turn left on this green-marked trail and this will lead you to Ein Livna. This is a small pool, but at 2.5 meters is quite deep. Take this into consideration before jumping in. There are picnic tables and fruit trees close to the pool. 

• From Ein Livna continue ascending up the valley. The settlement of Beit Ayin is on your right. This was founded in 1989 and now has a population of over 1,000 people. At the top of the hill you will see a footpath that climbs up to Ein Huvela. 

From Ein Huvela to your car:

• From Ein Huvela, continue up the blue-marked trail to the left of the pool. At the next intersection turn left. When you come to a paved road turn right. Your car is a short distance ahead on the left.

 

Nearby places of interest: (click here for a comprehensive listing from the official Gush Etzion Tourism:

The Gush Etzion Heritage Center: In Kibbutz Kfar Etzion is a memorial to the people who gave their lives to protect the communities of the Etzion Bloc during Israel’s War of Independence. There is also a very moving sound and light show which which can be seen in either Hebrew or English. This site was recently declared a National Heritage Project by the Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu. It is open Sunday to Thursday in the summer from 9.00 AM -5.00 PM  and in the winter from 9.00 AM - 4.00 PM. Admission fee is 25 NIS. It is advisable to call beforehand for a showing. Tel: 02 993 5160 or 02 993 8308.  

Gush Etzion Winery at the Gush Etzion Junction. Visitors can visit the wine production area and then taste the wines in the Visitors Center. Open Sundays 10.00 AM - 5.00 PM and Fridays 9.00 AM - 2.00 PM. Tel: 02 930 9220.

Deer Land Park. This has a nature reserve, petting zoo, a climbing wall, 360 degree swings, bungee trampoline, paintball, archery, marksmanship, horseriding, 4x4 jeep rides, and a zipline 400 meter-long zipline which crosses the valley at a height of 120 meters. It is open in the summer from 9.30 AM - 5.00 PM, and 9.30 AM - 1.00 PM on Fridays, and in the winter from 9.30 AM - 4.30 PM and 9.30 AM - 12.30 PM on Fridays. The price is between 10-25 NIS for each activity and 100 NIS for the zipline.

The Lone Oak Tree. This is located by the town Allon Shvut, which means "oak of return". It is a nice place to relax and listen to the recording.

The Workship Gush Etzion at Rosh Tzurim. Sessions are for 2½ hours and involve designing and making Judaica objects using spcialized woodworking tools. It is suitable for anyone age 6 and over. 054 678 5813.  

Ein S'ajma is the first spring you will come to. It is not very deep and is good for a refreshing dip.

 

The views from the forest path between Ein S'ajma to Khirbat Jumjum are spectacular.

 

Khirbat Jumjum has ruins from Second Temple times and also Byzantine and Mamluke remains. It's worth a walk to the top, if only for the view. 

 

Ein Huvela functions as the mikveh for Bat Ayin. It's an experience - socially (it also functions as a sort of Bat Ayin men's club), physically (the water is cold) and spiritually. Also, try out the hummus joint across the road.